Chapter 4

The Radiator:   I found the oldest radiator repair guy in the area and convinced him to put a modern core between the two tanks for a stock appearing radiator which exactly fits the cowl.  Younger guys just don't understand....
 


The Oiling system:  I'm recently informed that I'd better improve the oiling.  To do this, I'll need to piggy-back a second pump on the first.  I must fabricate a plate between the two pumps with a 1/2 inch hole bored in it to pass the drive shaft from the #2 pump to the keyway of the driven gear in the #1 pump.  This must be done quite precisely to line it all up. I began by measuring the available space for #2 drive shaft stub in the #1 drive gear.  I added this depth to the thickness of the "center plate" and the length of the 1/2 inch hole bored in pump #2 to pass the driveshaft.   The #2 drive shaft length is then the sum of these lengths beyond the groove cut in the shaft for the "C" clip, minus a little room for expansion (about 1/16 inches).  These shafts are case hardened, and cutting them, drilling them or milling them is really hard to do.  I found that grinding in a little with a cutting disc gets you thru the hardening.  I drilled two holes entirely thru the shaft at the end where it inserts into #1 drive gear.  I then inserted 1/8 inch scroll pins into the holes and ground these down until they would just fit into the keyway of #1 gear.  This should act like a keyway/key system, but required a lot less fancy equipment to do.  Use a carbide (or cobalt) 1/8 inch drill bit.    Some parts

I anticipate the #2 pump being independant from the first, and running as follows:

low oil pan--- pump inlet--pump outlet--oil filter inlet----oil filter outlet----turbo----high oil pan

Rt side of engine shows open oil pump and turbo drain in pan.  Close-up

Oil pickup for 2nd pump 1  2    Finished 2nd pump  1  2

I'd better add a pressure switch which will shut off the ignition in this line.   Any ideas on an inexpensive readily available switch(no pressure is off...)? 

For now, I'll add a pressure switch I got from Ted Harbit which will turn on an idiot light on the dash at low pressure (I think I'll add an annoying buzzer too...)

The Wheels:   The wheels seen in the picture above are Ford big and littles with baby moons, however, to be more outrageous, I have another plan. I found four rusty Tru-spoke wires costing $25.00 for the set. After sandblasting them for $20.00 total cost, I placed them in a wash tub (cost $25.00) and poured heavy duty Valspar polyurethane paint (cost $12.00) which had been thinned out. After turning the rims over and pouring the paint repeatedly over them, they looked like they were powder coated. This paint was available in a local hardware store . It can be mixed to virtually any color in the rainbow and is normally used for heavy duty applications like lining the inside of dump truck beds. I made the STUDEBAKER caps from 'stick on' air freshener covers which I glued to electrical 'pass through' grommets for Formica counter tops. After painting these red and white, they look quite effective. These wire wheels should stand up to the torque which the six can put out.

The Wheels

Washtub painting system       Washtub drain

Hubcaps*        Hubcap pieces          Wire wheels*
 

 


The Clutch stuff:  I have sandblasted the clutch and bellhousing, but since I have two bellhousings, I'm not sure whether it is the one originally with the engine I am using..... Thus I'll need to check runout on the mounted housing.

I made this tool from aluminum rod to locate the clutch hub during assembly and to attach a dial indicator to for runnout check.
 


Starter:  I'm told that despite the starter being a D.C. device, it will only spin one direction(no magnets...), and that the 6 volt unit can be used with a 12 volt negative ground setup (but be gentle....).  A 12 volt starter from about a 55' to 58' six can be substituted but check the snout size.
 


Overdrive: I took apart a relay.  It is simply a somewhat stout normally open switch actuated by 6v. I am sure that a 12v relay can be found at RadioScrap which will work.  I expect that a headlight relay will handle the watts just fine.  The solenoid should perhaps be changed to 12v if I can find one.   If not, I might try running it in  series with a 6 volt headlight to knock the 12v down to 6v....

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